Pollos y Jarras, REVISITED 

Downtown Miami

It’s been three months since we experienced Pollos y Jarras’ soft opening. The restaurant has a great casual environment and good service, but there were definite flaws in the food. We decided to stop in for lunch and see if they’ve worked out the kinks.

We ordered a round of Pisco Sours and the Anticuchos de Pollo to start; let me say, these were a major step up from the Anticuchos de Res. The chicken hearts were tender and flavorful unlike their beef counterparts. For the main course we ordered the Parrillada Castigame Negra, a combination of grilled chicken, skirt steak, and filet mignon. The assorted grilled meats were tender and juicy displaying a much better flavor profile, an overall improvement from the soft opening.

Little Lotus

Downtown Miami

In Downtown Miami—hidden behind layers of cheap watch stores, over-priced electronics, and obscure shops that sell everything from knock-off designer jeans to Hello Kitty lunch boxes—there is a network of shopping malls and courtyards unfamiliar to most. In a tiny unassuming space, tucked inside the Intercontinental Jewelry Center and specializing in Asian and Japanese tapas is Little Lotus [25 N. Miami Ave]; home to two talented chefs creating incredible dishes. Chef Inyoman Atmaja handles the hot dishes, while Chef Michael Asalie oversees the sushi bar. Chef Asalie spent time working at Morimoto’s NYC, making him all too familiar with good food and technique.  His expertise is evident from the minute your first roll arrives at the table. The restaurant is small and fills up quick so if you’re in the mood for a quick bite to eat at a peak hour, this is probably not your best bet. Little Lotus is meant to be an experience from start to finish.

When browsing through the menu it was obvious that sushi would be our focus. We finally came to a decision on an assortment of rolls and waited with anticipation for the first to arrive.  The Angel Heart started us off, a delicious combination of eel tempura, spicy tuna, avocado and mixed greens wrapped in soy paper. The roll displayed an amazing mix of textures from the crispiness of the tempura batter to the freshness of the tuna.  This was followed by a few basic rolls, a Spicy Crunchy Tuna Roll and a Snow Krab Avocado Roll; bright flavors which should not be overshadowed by the signature rolls. Next, was the Rock and Crunchy: shrimp tempura, avocado, snow krab, and masago, wrapped in soy paper and served with the chef’s special sauce; similar in texture to the Angel Heart, but with the addition of the masago and chef’s special sauce that added a touch of salty and sweet.

This was followed by a trio of “Incredible Rolls” that would live up to their name: the Flagler Roll, Big Mac, and MJ Roll. Paying homage to one of Miami’s most influential figures and its location namesake is the Flagler Roll: crunchy spicy white tuna and avocado topped with tuna, salmon, white fish, yellow tail, lemon, cilantro and yuzu miso. The lemon and cilantro give the roll a freshness that served as a palate cleanser for the rest of the meal. Chef Asalie’s version of the Big Mac replaces thoughts of stacked patties and secret sauce with layers of spicy crunchy tuna, avocado, snow krab, tobiko, and a sweet sauce. Don’t let the picture fool you; this sandwich size roll requires a fork and knife, as what you’re seeing are two pieces cut into eight manageable bite-sized portions; absolutely delicious. Last but not least, was the delectable MJ Roll: Cajun rock shrimp and avocado topped with spicy tuna, Japanese seasoning and a honey wasabi sauce.

The presentation of the meal was impeccable, the flavors flawless, and the experience memorable; all this at a very reasonable price. Venture and explore Downtown Miami; you might be surprised at what you find hidden around the corner.

Sparky’s Roadside BBQ

Downtown Miami

It’s lunch time and the usual is just not going to cut it. You jump into your ’66 GTO, crank the radio, and hit the open road. Thoughts of returning to work quickly fade as the wind cuts through your hair. The freedom of the road, the scenery, and the music overwhelm you, you’ve lost yourself in the drive and now have no idea where you are. There hasn’t been another car on the narrow dirt road for miles now. Your running low on gas, hunger is setting in, and in the distance you see smoke billowing out of a shack; at this point you’re just happy to see signs of life. You pull up and notice a hand written sign on a board: “BBQ.” What are the chances? Perfectly smoked ribs, brisket, and ice cold beers await inside. With a full stomach and a full tank of gas [did I mention this is the kind of place that doubles as a gas station? …yeah] you make your way back to the city.

If you rather avoid this overly dramatic movie sequence, make your way to Downtown Miami and stop in at Sparky’s Roadside BBQ [204 NE 1st Street] instead. From the picnic tables and bull skull, to the hand painted birdhouses covering the walls; the minute you step inside you feel like you’ve left the city.  Two chalkboards flank either end of the restaurant displaying the day’s specials and beer of the week. Here, two New York transplants are doing BBQ their way; with a good selection of all the tasty smoked meats you would expect: brisket, pulled pork, ribs, chicken, and duck, with all the usual accompaniments. To wash it down they stock an assortment of microbrews like Dogfish, Magic Hat, and Shipyard.

As we work in Downtown, we are no strangers to Sparky’s menu. We typically order our favorites: the Tyler’s Pressed Sandwich and the Grilled Fish Sandwich. The Tyler’s Pressed is a combination of beef brisket and pulled pork topped with sautéed onions, American cheese, and BBQ sauce, that is pressed to crispy perfection. The smoked meat is tender and flavorful with a slightly sweet BBQ sauce. The sandwich can stand on its own, but with house-made sauces like Sparky’s, Apple-cidar, Hoisin, and Guava-Habanero on the table, it’s tough to resist. If you like a little extra kick to your sauce ask for the Lava Sauce, it’s usually not on the table, but well worth it, just have a beer handy to cool you off. The Grilled Fish Sandwich is a tender mahi fillet, well seasoned, with a hint of lime on a toasted bun with a delicious kicked up tartar sauce on the side. The sandwiches are usually paired with coleslaw and fries. But, these could be substituted for any of their other flavorful sides, such as, spicy macaroni and cheese, corn on the cob, and stewed collard greens.

Now I couldn’t write this post without mentioning the fries, since it has been a source of pain for us and all other Sparky’s regulars we know. Sparky’s used to have seasoned waffle fries that were absolutely delicious. It didn’t matter what you got, as long as it came with a side of fries. However, for some reason they are no longer available. I’m sure there is a rational explanation for this, but we just needed them to know we miss those fries.

If you’re in the need to escape the norm—but don’t have a GTO to hit the road in—think about hitting Sparky’s Roadside BBQ. You won’t be disappointed in what you find; good food, cold microbrews, and a great environment.

Tobacco Road 12th Annual Crawfish Boil & Seafood Fest

Miami’s oldest bar is turning 100 this year and this past weekend it hosted its 12th Annual Crawfish Boil and Seafood Fest. It’s amazing to think that it has been ten years since I first came across Tobacco Road. It was a love affair from the start; from endless happy hours with buckets of Carib, Road Burgers, and amazing live music, to being where Leslie and I first met. It’s not just the personal memories, there is inherent history in this bar that you feel from the minute you step through the door.

I have to admit, this was our first time at the Road’s Crawfish Boil, but as soon as we arrived we knew it’d be a good time. This festival is not just for the crawfish enthusiast, people from all walks of life come together to enjoy good fresh seafood, cold drinks, and live music. In spite of the weather which was not cooperating at times, we—along with a few hundred people—were happy to squeeze in under the tents. At the center of the festival, the crew from Rosey Baby dished out the Mudbugs, Gumbo, and Shrimp Po’boys, while The River Seafood & Oyster Bar provided Fire Roasted Oysters. Along the perimeter, local food trucks like Ms. Cheezious, Latin Burger, and Los Chamos offered their seafood creations along with their regular fare.

As opposed to the smaller backyard boils we’ve been to, [ like this one ] the process here was slightly different. For starters, the crawfish were boiled 50 lbs a batch in two massive square kettles with metal strainers. A hoist was used to transfer the crawfish between kettles. Once cooled, they were lifted to a nearby table and given a final dusting of spice. Having to keep up with the demand of hundreds of festival goers produced short soak times, that didn’t allow the crawfish to take in enough spice. This left the heads lacking of juices and the meat a little bland. But, as the day went on the soak times increased as did the flavor being imparted to the crawfish. The price per order was $18 for about a pound of crawfish.  It seemed a bit steep, considering the average person can put down 3 to 4 lbs.

What’s a Cajun inspired festival without some live music? Taking the stage first were The Wholetones, a local band playing a cool mix of bluegrass, folk, and punk. They were followed up by a Tobacco Road staple IKO IKO with their brand of “urban swamp blues.”

Closing out the night with some cold beers, good tunes, and great company made for another memorable night at the Road. But, we couldn’t leave without having a Grilled Blue and Bacon (or two) from Ms. Cheezious, not exactly Cajun, but a temptation too good to pass up. Whether you make it out to Tobacco Road for a festival or are just stopping in after work, you are bound to have a good time making your own history and being a part of theirs.

Pollos y Jarras

Downtown Miami has seen a resurgence in recent years; an influx of residents has enlivened the streets. As a result, more and more new businesses are popping-up. Although spotty, these new restaurants, pubs, and shops have led the way in reshaping Downtown. Chef Juan Chipoco was one of the pioneers with his widely hyped Cvi.Che 105, which started out small and expanded after gaining popularity. Next door, the also Peruvian inspired, Pollos y Jarras marks his second restaurant opening on the same block.

This time, Chipoco has rehabbed a small stand-alone, two-story building that had been an eye-sore and commercial disaster for years. The building now looks great, complemented by outdoor seating and the tucked away Wazzka Lounge (previously a loading area adjacent to the building); making for an active night time retreat in an otherwise dingy street. Inside the restaurant, the décor is casual, yet trendy: concrete, brick, and wood accentuate the lofty feel; while arte chincha posters cleverly drape the walls.  The ground floor features an order counter, wrap-around bar top with stools and full bar in the back. In concept, this is an appealing configuration for a downtown establishment; but in a city like Miami where casual bar top dining hasn’t caught on, the always empty space might give passersby a bad impression. After a short elevator ride with the hostess and a larger than life neon image of Chipoco, you arrive at the main dining space, which on this day, during the soft opening, was buzzing with waiters.

Despite the simplicity implied by its name, the menu is quite extensive; appetizers, sandwiches, soups and salads, grilled meats of all kind, sides, and desserts. The colorful names and adjective laden descriptions turn a tour through the menu into a tour of Peru; quirky, but sometimes cumbersome when deciphering your order. In our case, since the soft opening offered a limited menu, our waiter suggested a sampling for the table; and a sampling we got! It began with a courtesy Aguadito de Pollo, a light and flavorful chicken soup with finely chopped cilantro, chunks of vegetables, and chicken; a pleasant way to begin the meal. 

This was followed by a series of apps: Anticuchos de Res con Choclo (Grilled Beef Heart), Salchiyuca (Sausage and Fried Yuca Sticks), and Yuca Frita con salsa Huancaina (Fried Yuca Sticks). Unfortunately, the Anticuchos de Res were a disappointment; although well seasoned, they were tougher and gamier than customary. The Salchiyuca and Yuca Frita, on the other hand, were tasty and nicely presented in mini fry baskets. The yuca fries, however, were shaped from puree instead of the traditional yuca chunks.

The main course was led by the house specialty, Pollo a la Brasa (Rotisserie Chicken), the meat was juicy and tender, the skin nicely charred, but the seasoning seemed to overpower the pureness of the charcoal grill. This was followed by a savory Skirt Steak that would have been perfect had it been served medium instead of well done; but we were never asked. The entrees were complemented with Arroz Chaufa (Peruvian Fried Rice), which was good, but probably better without chicken bone fragments; a chef’s salad; Camote Frito (Sweet Potato Fries) sprinkled with sugar and absolutely delicious; and crunchy french fries.

While service was good there are definite kinks to work out in the food. The price of the meal was reasonable considering the portions, but having seen the prices on the menu, Pollos y Jarras is not exactly inexpensive, and instead seems to be building on the hype of its predecessor. In spite of this, we’re hoping Chipoco works out the kinks by the time the full menu kicks in.

PIZZA BAR, downtown miami

Everyone has their idea of what a perfect slice of pizza should be.  If you grew up in the northeast like I did, it’s simple; a thin slice of cheese is all you need.  Memories of the gritty pizza shop—strangely they play out in Technicolor—the checkered laminate floor, faded red Formica countertops, bright fluorescent lighting… A place never quite as clean as you’d like it to be, but as a kid dirt is really never an issue.  The sounds of Pac-Man, Frogger, and Street Fighter fill the air.  Behind the counter the dough is being tossed, stretched thin, and formed to the right size by what seems to be an always-annoyed Italian-American covered in flour.  A ladle of a semi-sweet sauce with a hint of spice is meticulously spread around the dough, a hand full of cheese tops it off, and into the oven it goes.  Two dollars later, I have my large slice of cheese and drink; needing only garlic powder and crushed red pepper to finish it off.  Nothing but a greasy, almost transparent paper plate remains, unhealthy I know, but oh so good.  The perfect slice.

The New York style pizza—or in my case the Jersey style pizza—at its core: a simple, unpretentious thin slice of cheese; no magical ingredients, no fancy toppings and yet, so difficult to duplicate outside of the northeast. Flash forward 20 years and travel 1,300 miles south to Pizza Bar in Downtown Miami [228 SE 1ST Street].  Here, you won’t find the gritty pizza shop of your youth.  There are no arcade games playing in the background or faded Formica; instead, you are treated with the familiar sounds of the movie Goodfellas (so cliché and yet, so fitting).  Hanging guitar light fixtures replace the fluorescent bulbs, and stainless steel countertops, exposed brick, and flat screens round-out the modern and purposely gritty décor.  Pizza Bar brings out what you would expect in a typical New York pizza joint: a simple menu, freshly made pies displayed on the storefront and of course, the owner: an Italian from the City.  Like any good pizza joint, a few hot Italian subs and wings round out the menu.  If you’d rather have a salad, they have those too, but really, why would you go to a pizza joint for a salad?  If you’re looking for a good BIG cheese slice, fountain drink, and garlic knot for under $6 then this is your place.  No magical ingredients or fancy toppings, just a good slice.  It’s not quite New York or Jersey, but with the cool vibe and hearty slice, it’s pretty close.

The quest for the perfect slice continues…