Tobacco Road 12th Annual Crawfish Boil & Seafood Fest

Miami’s oldest bar is turning 100 this year and this past weekend it hosted its 12th Annual Crawfish Boil and Seafood Fest. It’s amazing to think that it has been ten years since I first came across Tobacco Road. It was a love affair from the start; from endless happy hours with buckets of Carib, Road Burgers, and amazing live music, to being where Leslie and I first met. It’s not just the personal memories, there is inherent history in this bar that you feel from the minute you step through the door.

I have to admit, this was our first time at the Road’s Crawfish Boil, but as soon as we arrived we knew it’d be a good time. This festival is not just for the crawfish enthusiast, people from all walks of life come together to enjoy good fresh seafood, cold drinks, and live music. In spite of the weather which was not cooperating at times, we—along with a few hundred people—were happy to squeeze in under the tents. At the center of the festival, the crew from Rosey Baby dished out the Mudbugs, Gumbo, and Shrimp Po’boys, while The River Seafood & Oyster Bar provided Fire Roasted Oysters. Along the perimeter, local food trucks like Ms. Cheezious, Latin Burger, and Los Chamos offered their seafood creations along with their regular fare.

As opposed to the smaller backyard boils we’ve been to, [ like this one ] the process here was slightly different. For starters, the crawfish were boiled 50 lbs a batch in two massive square kettles with metal strainers. A hoist was used to transfer the crawfish between kettles. Once cooled, they were lifted to a nearby table and given a final dusting of spice. Having to keep up with the demand of hundreds of festival goers produced short soak times, that didn’t allow the crawfish to take in enough spice. This left the heads lacking of juices and the meat a little bland. But, as the day went on the soak times increased as did the flavor being imparted to the crawfish. The price per order was $18 for about a pound of crawfish.  It seemed a bit steep, considering the average person can put down 3 to 4 lbs.

What’s a Cajun inspired festival without some live music? Taking the stage first were The Wholetones, a local band playing a cool mix of bluegrass, folk, and punk. They were followed up by a Tobacco Road staple IKO IKO with their brand of “urban swamp blues.”

Closing out the night with some cold beers, good tunes, and great company made for another memorable night at the Road. But, we couldn’t leave without having a Grilled Blue and Bacon (or two) from Ms. Cheezious, not exactly Cajun, but a temptation too good to pass up. Whether you make it out to Tobacco Road for a festival or are just stopping in after work, you are bound to have a good time making your own history and being a part of theirs.

Chorizo Shrimp and Egg Tostada

Breakfast is, without question, my favorite meal of the day. But on most days breakfast is nothing more than a glass of orange juice and the occasional bagel, as we’re running out the door. So when the weekend comes around I can’t help but take advantage of the extra time to make and enjoy a good morning meal. For this dish, inspiration came in the form of leftover dinner ingredients. A few days ago we had queso fundido with chorizo and shrimp tacos. Leaving us with plenty of Mexican ingredients in the fridge; it was only natural what direction breakfast would take. The smokiness from the paprika in the chorizo and the sweet buttery notes from the shrimp go well in any dish, but add eggs, a crispy tostada and a touch of fresh cilantro and what you’re left with is a breakfast you wish you would have made more of.

Ingredients

¼ lb ground chorizo

¼ lb shrimp

4 eggs

1 tbs butter

1 tbs sour cream

2 corn tortillas fried

vegetable oil for frying

paprika for dusting

grated cotija cheese

chopped cilantro

salt + pepper

For the Chipotle Crema

½ cup Mexican crema (sour cream works)

½ lime juiced

1 tbs chipotle adobo

Instruction

For the chipotle crema, mix the ingredients and add salt and pepper to taste.

In a medium, deep skillet, heat a ¼ inch of oil until hot. Fry the tortillas until golden and crisp. Drain on a paper towel and dust lightly with paprika. Bring a pan to medium-high heat and add the chorizo. When the chorizo starts to brown remove it from the pan and set aside. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper; and cook in the pan with the chorizo drippings. When the shrimp are cooked through add the chorizo, stir and transfer to a bowl. Add butter to the pan, beat the eggs, season with salt and pepper and cook. Stirring constantly, when the eggs begin to firm up add the sour cream and continue to stir until the desired doneness is reached.

To assemble the tostada, place the tortilla on the plate, top with the eggs, shrimp, and chorizo. Finish with the chipotle cream, grated cotija cheese and chopped cilantro.



Street Food

Until recently “Miami street food” meant nothing more than hot dogs, sausages, and arepas, outside the arena on game day. But now, the national food truck trend has caught on and Miami street food has come alive. Like the rest of the nation, Miami food trucks are about elevating the notion of street food; about great chefs, good ingredients, restaurant quality food, and inspired dishes. Legendary dives are reinventing themselves with their mobile kitchens and up-and-coming chefs are using food trucks as marketing tools for their restaurants. These trucks are not only providing the typical street food fair, they are dishing out gourmet food with cultural inspirations. Food lovers are taking notice and are flocking to these trucks and following them around town, day and night.

Tuesday night we made plans to meet up with friends at BTTR, the Biscayne Triangle Truck Roundup [at Johnson and Wales University on Biscayne Boulevard], one of many food truck rallies taking place around the city. Thirty trucks meet here every week on this night for what seems to be an impromptu street festival; filled with food, music, and meandering foodies lining up at their favorite trucks to sample the menu.

Our first stop was Mr. Good Stuff, a Venezuelan inspired truck pumping out stuffed Lunas (arepas), burgers, and tostones. The truck itself served as a canvas for local artist Lebo. Now, if you think that the cartoon print is just a funky way to draw attention to the truck, all you have to do is take a peek behind the window. The inspiration and the man behind the red cap is Chef Alfredo Montero. The guy is legit and the food he’s serving up is proof of that. We went with the Sweet Caroline: a Carolina pulled pork luna topped with cheddar cheese and coleslaw; and the 4 Cheezy-My-Neezy: deep fried cheese bite made up of cheddar, gorgonzola, mozzarella and provolone with a spicy guava dipping sauce. Both were absolutely delicious. At this point, I would have been content grabbing another luna and waffle fries, and working my way through their assortment of sauces, but that wasn’t our goal today. With our sights set on sharing a sampling of as many trucks as our stomachs could handle, we moved on.

At Ms. Cheezious, the fresh made grilled cheese truck, we ordered the Goat Cheese and Prosciutto with tomato and arugula on a marble rye, while our less adventurous companions decided to create their own: a grilled bacon and cheddar. In spite of its simplicity, the bacon and cheddar was pretty good; the smoke from the bacon and sharpness of the cheddar always makes for a tasty combination, but it was definitely the Goat cheese and Prosciutto that was the standout. The creamy cheese and salty prosciutto make for the perfect marriage,  complimented and balanced by the slice of tomato.

Still hungry and ready for more, we made a stop at Arepa Box and paid homage to a Miami street food original, with a Cachapa: a tasty sweet corn arepa filled with guayanes cheese. That was followed by Che Grill, an Argentinean inspired truck where we tried one of their specialties, the Gaucho Burger. This is the kind of burger that would hit the spot at 3 in the morning after a long night of drinking. Topping this 8 oz. beef patty is everything you’d expect for breakfast: ham, bacon, a fried egg, and throw in a slice mozzarella cheese for good measure. Next up were a pair of stuffed tostones at Miso Hungry. The twice fried plantain cup served as a perfect vessel for this Asian-fusion pulled pork. The curry chicken stuffed tostón, on the other hand, was in need of complementary flavors to soften the punch of spices.

A little sluggish and about ready to throw in the towel we walked up to the Purple People Eatery. On the day’s specials was a must try, the Truffled Loaded Cheese Fries. Topped with truffle oil, cheese, bacon, scallion, and crema, these fries were delicious and definitely one of the night’s highlights. The menu is crammed with tasty creations by chefs David Shipman and Michelle Duncan, ranging from bison burgers to ginger beer battered mahi tacos. Without question, a do-over on an empty stomach.

The night was coming to an end and it was difficult to imagine having anything else, but we figured there’s always room for dessert, right? Cue Coolhaus. How could four architects pass up this architecture themed dessert truck? Reading through and giggling at the list of architect-named ice cream sandwiches like the Mies Vanilla Rohe, the Louis Ba-kahn, and BuckMINTster Fuller, we quickly realized with the awkward stares that these puns were lost on most; nonetheless, it did not deter anyone from lining up to try one of these tasty creations.  We went with the I.M. Pie-Nut Butter ice cream in a Smore’s Cookie. The peanut butter ice cream was well balanced with sweet and salty, while the graham cracker and marshmallow cookie served a good compliment and as a great last bite.

Whether you are tracking your favorite food truck on the go or catching them at one of the many truck rallies around town, you’ll always find good service, great food, and even better people.

Cochon 555

A few weeks ago I came across a culinary event called Cochon 555, the description read: “five chefs, five pigs, five winemakers”. Considering that by this point I had already pulled out my credit card to purchase tickets, there was no need to read on, but I did. Five local chefs are given a whole pig to dream up their best recipes, nose to tail. The event is casual and is meant to be interactive with high tops and prep stations. At the end of the night the audience and a panel of judges vote on the best bite. The winner gets local bragging rights and a place in the Grand Cochon competition at the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen. Along with the chef’s creations, wines, spirits, and brews keep your whistles wet between stations while mingling with farmers or taking in a butcher demonstration and [why not] a tattoo challenge.

The mastermind behind such a sinister event is Brady Lowe of Taste Network. With event cities including: New York, Chicago, Boston, Los Angeles, San Francisco, DC, Portland, Memphis, Napa, and for the first time Miami, his goal of spreading the word about heritage pigs, the farmers that breed them, and their amazing benefits to the culinary world is catching on.

Tickets in hand and grumbling stomachs we head to the Four Seasons, Brickell. The sights and smells are overwhelming. We grab a drink and set our eyes on the first table.

The Chefs

Michael Schwartz [ Michael’s Genuine ]

James Petrakis [ The Ravenous Pig ]

Michelle Bernstein [ Michy’s ]

James Strine [ Café Boulud Palm Beach ]

Aaron Brooks [ Four Seasons Hotel ]

The Wineries

Elk Cove Vineyards

Chehalem Wines

Sokol Blosser

Scholium Project

K Vintners

Notable bites included; Chef Strine’s Milk Braised Pork Shoulder, Heart Tartar, and Bacon Jam (caution: when eating bacon jam, whatever you spread it on, toast, paper plate, all will taste delicious); Chef Brooks’ Pork Belly Anticucho and Smoked Hock Ice Cream Sundae; Chef Bernstein’s Pork Ceviche, Croqueta, and PB & J; Chef Schwartz’s Scapple with Fried Quail egg and Bacon Maple Pecan Pie; and Chef Petrakis’ Head Boudin and Bacon Fat Biscotti. 

If that wasn’t enough pork for one night Yardbird’s Jeffery McInnis served up Steamed Asian Buns, Tator Tot Croquetas and Yardbird Fiddle Faddle.

The event’s promise did not disappoint, it was every bit as decadent and delicious as it sounded. With a traditional champagne toast, the much anticipated results: the winner of the Miami Cochon 555 event is…

Michelle Bernstein!

Lou’s Beer Garden

It’s a beautiful Sunday morning and I have a surprise outing planned. In a few days it’s Valentine’s Day and Leslie is going out of town for work.  We’re not the type to celebrate this holiday, but the weather has been beautiful so I use it as an excuse to try out a new place; Lou’s Beer Garden in North Miami Beach [ 7337 Harding Avenue ] for Beer Brunch. This charming poolside gastro pub is inconspicuously tucked behind the New World Hotel. Unless you live in the area and have walked by several times, chances are you haven’t noticed the small neon sign at the entry.  Luckily, we were told of its existence.

We arrive, grab a menu at the bar, take a seat poolside, and take in the atmosphere.  The space is flexible and laid back, a total local’s hangout. Nightly entertainment varies; anything from a Heat game projected on the side of the building to live music. The dinner menu, ranges from a 16 hour Pulled Pork Sani to a Garden Fresh Ceviche. Salads, crab cakes, a cheese and meat board, and artisanal thin crust pizzas can serve as accompaniments to one of many craft beers on tap and even more in bottle.

We are ready to order. Having previously seen the menu I knew right away what I was having: Eggs Louis, poached eggs on brioche with crabmeat, hollandaise sauce, and bacon. And of course, the chef recommended pairing, Blanche de Bruxelle, from Brasserie Lefebvre; a Belgian white beer with floral notes and distinct citrus flavors.  This witbeir is cloudy, light in color and has a slightly bitter aftertaste.  That turns out to be Leslie’s choice as well. But, if you prefer lunch rather than breakfast, how about the Nobe Kobe, a Kobe beef burger with all the fixings, paired with an Old Rasputin?

Our food arrives along with a fresh beer. I cut into the eggs let the yolk ooze over the crab, and savor my first bite; a hint of lemon, a touch of bitter from the greens, and the smoky crunch of bacon. Perfection. I take a sip of beer and the subtle citrus notes explode to the foreground, reminiscent of fresh orange juice. A beautiful pairing. With my last piece of brioche I soak up the remaining yolk and contemplate having another beer, but with a trip to the airport looming, we settle for the check.

Beer Brunch at Lou’s Beer Garden: a hidden gem and a definite do over.

Pollos y Jarras

Downtown Miami has seen a resurgence in recent years; an influx of residents has enlivened the streets. As a result, more and more new businesses are popping-up. Although spotty, these new restaurants, pubs, and shops have led the way in reshaping Downtown. Chef Juan Chipoco was one of the pioneers with his widely hyped Cvi.Che 105, which started out small and expanded after gaining popularity. Next door, the also Peruvian inspired, Pollos y Jarras marks his second restaurant opening on the same block.

This time, Chipoco has rehabbed a small stand-alone, two-story building that had been an eye-sore and commercial disaster for years. The building now looks great, complemented by outdoor seating and the tucked away Wazzka Lounge (previously a loading area adjacent to the building); making for an active night time retreat in an otherwise dingy street. Inside the restaurant, the décor is casual, yet trendy: concrete, brick, and wood accentuate the lofty feel; while arte chincha posters cleverly drape the walls.  The ground floor features an order counter, wrap-around bar top with stools and full bar in the back. In concept, this is an appealing configuration for a downtown establishment; but in a city like Miami where casual bar top dining hasn’t caught on, the always empty space might give passersby a bad impression. After a short elevator ride with the hostess and a larger than life neon image of Chipoco, you arrive at the main dining space, which on this day, during the soft opening, was buzzing with waiters.

Despite the simplicity implied by its name, the menu is quite extensive; appetizers, sandwiches, soups and salads, grilled meats of all kind, sides, and desserts. The colorful names and adjective laden descriptions turn a tour through the menu into a tour of Peru; quirky, but sometimes cumbersome when deciphering your order. In our case, since the soft opening offered a limited menu, our waiter suggested a sampling for the table; and a sampling we got! It began with a courtesy Aguadito de Pollo, a light and flavorful chicken soup with finely chopped cilantro, chunks of vegetables, and chicken; a pleasant way to begin the meal. 

This was followed by a series of apps: Anticuchos de Res con Choclo (Grilled Beef Heart), Salchiyuca (Sausage and Fried Yuca Sticks), and Yuca Frita con salsa Huancaina (Fried Yuca Sticks). Unfortunately, the Anticuchos de Res were a disappointment; although well seasoned, they were tougher and gamier than customary. The Salchiyuca and Yuca Frita, on the other hand, were tasty and nicely presented in mini fry baskets. The yuca fries, however, were shaped from puree instead of the traditional yuca chunks.

The main course was led by the house specialty, Pollo a la Brasa (Rotisserie Chicken), the meat was juicy and tender, the skin nicely charred, but the seasoning seemed to overpower the pureness of the charcoal grill. This was followed by a savory Skirt Steak that would have been perfect had it been served medium instead of well done; but we were never asked. The entrees were complemented with Arroz Chaufa (Peruvian Fried Rice), which was good, but probably better without chicken bone fragments; a chef’s salad; Camote Frito (Sweet Potato Fries) sprinkled with sugar and absolutely delicious; and crunchy french fries.

While service was good there are definite kinks to work out in the food. The price of the meal was reasonable considering the portions, but having seen the prices on the menu, Pollos y Jarras is not exactly inexpensive, and instead seems to be building on the hype of its predecessor. In spite of this, we’re hoping Chipoco works out the kinks by the time the full menu kicks in.

It’s crawfish season! For many that means nothing. But, those who have had the privilege of being part of a boil know it signifies a long standing tradition; one that has deep roots in Louisiana — a culturally rich state with amazing food. Gathering around a newspaper-lined picnic table with family and friends, cold beer in hand, to savor these small succulent crustaceans is almost ceremonial. Luckily for us, our southern friends Kricket and Trent have transported this bayou tradition to their backyard in Miami. 

This is a no frills event; none are needed. A backyard, picnic table, newspaper, and a roll of paper towels should do it. It’s not about creating an environment; the environment is naturally infused by the smells of the food and laughter of those involved.

The boil is an all day event; a ritual that begins with the crawfish and gets perfected with every batch: where you buy them (in Miami, it means getting them shipped overnight), how you clean them, how you prepare them, and how you eat them. Anyone who enjoys a boil will tell you, the process of eating them is a ritual in its own right. You start by breaking the crawfish and sucking the head… no really, suck the head! All the spices, juices, and natural fats from the crawfish collect here, giving you a rush of flavor. Next, peel off the first segment of the shell around the tail, pinch the end, and pull with your teeth. If done correctly, the tail meat should pop right out — a technique (art form) that requires some practice.

Our day started with the sound of a propane burner and wrapped up with the stroke of a guitar; the perfect end to another boil… And the anticipation for next season’s boil begins.

 

Ingredients

40 to 50 pounds live crawfish, rinsed and washed

4 (1 pound) bags seafood boil

2 (3 ounce) bags crab boil

Salt to taste (you will need a lot more than you think)

2 pounds of small red potatoes, cleaned but not peeled

6-8 onions, peeled and halved

15-20 ears of corn, frozen

8-10 large lemons, halved

5 pounds sausage (cut into 3 inch pieces)

water

Equipment

A 10-gallon pot with basket

Propane jet burner

Kitchen gloves or towel

1 large ice cooler

Instructions

Place the cooking pot with its basket on the propane burner and fill halfway with water. Add 1-1/2 bags of Seafood Boil, 1 bag of crab boil, salt, 3 halved onions, and 3 lemons halved and juiced. Cover and bring to a boil. After 10 to 15 minutes, taste the stock and adjust the salt and spice to desired levels.

The amount of crawfish you do per batch depends on the size of your pot (in our case, about 7 lbs per batch). To rinse the crawfish, pour into a large cooler, fill with water and allow to drain. Continue until the water runs clear and discard any dead crawfish. Some believe that the use of salt assists in the rinsing, but salt can kill the crawfish in the process, so we just let the water do its thing.

Once the stock is ready, add 6 to 8 potatoes and 1 pound of sausage and allow to cook for about 10 minutes.  Add 5 to 6 halved ears of corn and cook for another 5 minutes. Once the vegetables are cooked, pour the crawfish into the pot and return the stock to a boil, about 5 minutes.  Turn the heat off and allow the crawfish to soak for an additional 10-15 minutes with the lid off. This is when they absorb most of the flavor.  Occasionally pull out a crawfish and taste it, you want to make sure the head is juicy and the meat has absorbed the right amount of spice. Depending on the desired taste, the amount of time the crawfish is allowed to soak can be adjusted as you go.

Remove the basket from the pot, allow to strain.  Dump the mouth-watering contents on a newspaper-lined picnic table, crack open an ice cold beer and enjoy.

Repeat.