Sparky’s Roadside BBQ

Downtown Miami

It’s lunch time and the usual is just not going to cut it. You jump into your ’66 GTO, crank the radio, and hit the open road. Thoughts of returning to work quickly fade as the wind cuts through your hair. The freedom of the road, the scenery, and the music overwhelm you, you’ve lost yourself in the drive and now have no idea where you are. There hasn’t been another car on the narrow dirt road for miles now. Your running low on gas, hunger is setting in, and in the distance you see smoke billowing out of a shack; at this point you’re just happy to see signs of life. You pull up and notice a hand written sign on a board: “BBQ.” What are the chances? Perfectly smoked ribs, brisket, and ice cold beers await inside. With a full stomach and a full tank of gas [did I mention this is the kind of place that doubles as a gas station? …yeah] you make your way back to the city.

If you rather avoid this overly dramatic movie sequence, make your way to Downtown Miami and stop in at Sparky’s Roadside BBQ [204 NE 1st Street] instead. From the picnic tables and bull skull, to the hand painted birdhouses covering the walls; the minute you step inside you feel like you’ve left the city.  Two chalkboards flank either end of the restaurant displaying the day’s specials and beer of the week. Here, two New York transplants are doing BBQ their way; with a good selection of all the tasty smoked meats you would expect: brisket, pulled pork, ribs, chicken, and duck, with all the usual accompaniments. To wash it down they stock an assortment of microbrews like Dogfish, Magic Hat, and Shipyard.

As we work in Downtown, we are no strangers to Sparky’s menu. We typically order our favorites: the Tyler’s Pressed Sandwich and the Grilled Fish Sandwich. The Tyler’s Pressed is a combination of beef brisket and pulled pork topped with sautéed onions, American cheese, and BBQ sauce, that is pressed to crispy perfection. The smoked meat is tender and flavorful with a slightly sweet BBQ sauce. The sandwich can stand on its own, but with house-made sauces like Sparky’s, Apple-cidar, Hoisin, and Guava-Habanero on the table, it’s tough to resist. If you like a little extra kick to your sauce ask for the Lava Sauce, it’s usually not on the table, but well worth it, just have a beer handy to cool you off. The Grilled Fish Sandwich is a tender mahi fillet, well seasoned, with a hint of lime on a toasted bun with a delicious kicked up tartar sauce on the side. The sandwiches are usually paired with coleslaw and fries. But, these could be substituted for any of their other flavorful sides, such as, spicy macaroni and cheese, corn on the cob, and stewed collard greens.

Now I couldn’t write this post without mentioning the fries, since it has been a source of pain for us and all other Sparky’s regulars we know. Sparky’s used to have seasoned waffle fries that were absolutely delicious. It didn’t matter what you got, as long as it came with a side of fries. However, for some reason they are no longer available. I’m sure there is a rational explanation for this, but we just needed them to know we miss those fries.

If you’re in the need to escape the norm—but don’t have a GTO to hit the road in—think about hitting Sparky’s Roadside BBQ. You won’t be disappointed in what you find; good food, cold microbrews, and a great environment.

Pollos y Jarras

Downtown Miami has seen a resurgence in recent years; an influx of residents has enlivened the streets. As a result, more and more new businesses are popping-up. Although spotty, these new restaurants, pubs, and shops have led the way in reshaping Downtown. Chef Juan Chipoco was one of the pioneers with his widely hyped Cvi.Che 105, which started out small and expanded after gaining popularity. Next door, the also Peruvian inspired, Pollos y Jarras marks his second restaurant opening on the same block.

This time, Chipoco has rehabbed a small stand-alone, two-story building that had been an eye-sore and commercial disaster for years. The building now looks great, complemented by outdoor seating and the tucked away Wazzka Lounge (previously a loading area adjacent to the building); making for an active night time retreat in an otherwise dingy street. Inside the restaurant, the décor is casual, yet trendy: concrete, brick, and wood accentuate the lofty feel; while arte chincha posters cleverly drape the walls.  The ground floor features an order counter, wrap-around bar top with stools and full bar in the back. In concept, this is an appealing configuration for a downtown establishment; but in a city like Miami where casual bar top dining hasn’t caught on, the always empty space might give passersby a bad impression. After a short elevator ride with the hostess and a larger than life neon image of Chipoco, you arrive at the main dining space, which on this day, during the soft opening, was buzzing with waiters.

Despite the simplicity implied by its name, the menu is quite extensive; appetizers, sandwiches, soups and salads, grilled meats of all kind, sides, and desserts. The colorful names and adjective laden descriptions turn a tour through the menu into a tour of Peru; quirky, but sometimes cumbersome when deciphering your order. In our case, since the soft opening offered a limited menu, our waiter suggested a sampling for the table; and a sampling we got! It began with a courtesy Aguadito de Pollo, a light and flavorful chicken soup with finely chopped cilantro, chunks of vegetables, and chicken; a pleasant way to begin the meal. 

This was followed by a series of apps: Anticuchos de Res con Choclo (Grilled Beef Heart), Salchiyuca (Sausage and Fried Yuca Sticks), and Yuca Frita con salsa Huancaina (Fried Yuca Sticks). Unfortunately, the Anticuchos de Res were a disappointment; although well seasoned, they were tougher and gamier than customary. The Salchiyuca and Yuca Frita, on the other hand, were tasty and nicely presented in mini fry baskets. The yuca fries, however, were shaped from puree instead of the traditional yuca chunks.

The main course was led by the house specialty, Pollo a la Brasa (Rotisserie Chicken), the meat was juicy and tender, the skin nicely charred, but the seasoning seemed to overpower the pureness of the charcoal grill. This was followed by a savory Skirt Steak that would have been perfect had it been served medium instead of well done; but we were never asked. The entrees were complemented with Arroz Chaufa (Peruvian Fried Rice), which was good, but probably better without chicken bone fragments; a chef’s salad; Camote Frito (Sweet Potato Fries) sprinkled with sugar and absolutely delicious; and crunchy french fries.

While service was good there are definite kinks to work out in the food. The price of the meal was reasonable considering the portions, but having seen the prices on the menu, Pollos y Jarras is not exactly inexpensive, and instead seems to be building on the hype of its predecessor. In spite of this, we’re hoping Chipoco works out the kinks by the time the full menu kicks in.