Sra Martinez

Design District, Miami

Just north of Downtown Miami is the Design District, a low-rise commercial neighborhood made up of old warehouse building that have been converted to galleries, showrooms, boutique retail, restaurants, and bars. In the center of the district, constructed in the 1920s is one of the Design District’s more recognizable structures, the Buena Vista Post Office. The neo-classical building has been repurposed multiple times, but each time designers have achieved a good balance between modern accents and the classic details that make the structure unique. Most recently the post office was transformed from a private residence and office in 2004 to the short-lived restaurant Domo Japones in 2007.

Since then, the post office has been home to Sra Martinez [4000 NE 2^nd Ave.], a Spanish tapas bar with a modern twist created by Miami native Chef Michelle Bernstein.  For years we’ve been hearing great things about both Michy’s and Sra Martinez; but I have to admit, our first experience with Chef Bernstein’s food came recently at Cochon 555 [highlighted here]. Michelle took top honors that night with her porky creations and is set to compete this weekend against nine other national winners, including Marc Forgione and Jamie Bissonnette at the Grand Cochon in Aspen as part of the Food & Wine Festival. We didn’t know what we were missing until that night, but it was clear that we couldn’t deprive ourselves any longer.

Inside the old post office, the space is amazing; twenty foot high ceiling, hard wood floors, large windows with wood shutters, a cold tapas prep area with bar, and brown leather lined booths hugging the walls; while Almodovar movie posters add to the Spanish flair. We arrived early, decided to have a few drinks and head upstairs to the loft which houses the bar. The tiny yet cozy space was packed so we grabbed our drinks and made our way out to the adjacent balcony.

With our drinks running low and the smell from the kitchen making our mouths water, we went downstairs to grab a table. We sit down and before we have a chance to look over the menu, we order our drinks and take a moment to hear the day’s specials. Immediately we know we can’t pass one of them up: the Braised Short Rib Empanadas. The menu has a wide array of both cold and warm tapas to choose from. Most portions are typically larger than what you find in a traditional tapas bar. Prices range from $8 to just over $20 for the tapas with some larger plate like the Paella coming in slightly higher than that. If you can’t decide what to eat let the chef choose for you with a tasting menu ranging from $65 to $85. Three to four plates per person is typically suggested as a good way of sampling what the menu has to offer.

We decided to order three dishes at a time; first to arrive were the aforementioned Braised Short Rib Empanadas. The empanada was crispy on the outside, the meat was tender and packed full of flavor, and the accompanying chili de arbol sauce was delicious. This was shortly followed by the Croquetas, filled with jamon serrano and manchego over a fig marmalade; a perfect balance of the salty and sweet. Next were the Crispy Artichokes and the Bacon Wrapped Dates. The long stem artichokes were fried to perfection in a very light batter with a lemon-coriander sauce on the side. The medjool dates were wrapped in crispy bacon and stuffed with a blue cheese and almonds, once again a great balance between the salty and sweet.

Our next order was in, Octopus Carpaccio, Choclo con Chiles, and the Butifarra. The Octopus Carpaccio had to be one of our favorites. The thinly sliced octopus seemed to melt in your mouth was prepared with preserved lemons, cured black olives, and micro herbs, delicious on all levels. Since one of the members of our party thought that it was one of the best things she had ever eaten, we ordered seconds. The Choclo con Chiles; sweet corn with chiles and lime topped with cheese was tasty, but it felt more like an accompaniment to something else as opposed to a standalone dish. The Butifarra, a duck and foie gras sausage with large white beans in a slightly sweet port wine sauce was divine.

Next, we ordered the Squid Ink Risotto topped with crispy calamari; another one of the night’s highlights. The risotto was light and creamy well balanced by the crispy calamari, while the chimichurri and aioli added a salty undertone. This was followed by the Garbanzo Stew; a very rich stew with chorizo, wilted greens, melted tetilla, and finished off with an egg yolk and garlic chips that were amazing, for me, a trip through Spain in one bite. Last, but not least, were the Scallops, beautifully seared over a chorizo scented fennel puree, grapefruit brown butter, and capers; a very light and flavorful dish.

As I contemplate how I was going to get up from my chair, the dessert menu arrived and two just looked too good to pass up, so we ordered, the Torrejas and the Churros. The Torrejas were delightful; the crispy bread absorbed the juices from the warm rum sautéed bananas and figs, complimented nicely by vanilla ice cream. The Churros were tasty, crispy on the outside, soft on the inside and served with a bitter-sweet chocolate sauce.

With our night coming to an end, it was obvious that we had been missing out all these years. Sra Martinez has managed to produce high quality food with a menu as flexible as the building it’s in. The overall experience was amazing and the service was fantastic. The only question in my mind is: When to try Michy’s?

Lou’s Beer Garden

It’s a beautiful Sunday morning and I have a surprise outing planned. In a few days it’s Valentine’s Day and Leslie is going out of town for work.  We’re not the type to celebrate this holiday, but the weather has been beautiful so I use it as an excuse to try out a new place; Lou’s Beer Garden in North Miami Beach [ 7337 Harding Avenue ] for Beer Brunch. This charming poolside gastro pub is inconspicuously tucked behind the New World Hotel. Unless you live in the area and have walked by several times, chances are you haven’t noticed the small neon sign at the entry.  Luckily, we were told of its existence.

We arrive, grab a menu at the bar, take a seat poolside, and take in the atmosphere.  The space is flexible and laid back, a total local’s hangout. Nightly entertainment varies; anything from a Heat game projected on the side of the building to live music. The dinner menu, ranges from a 16 hour Pulled Pork Sani to a Garden Fresh Ceviche. Salads, crab cakes, a cheese and meat board, and artisanal thin crust pizzas can serve as accompaniments to one of many craft beers on tap and even more in bottle.

We are ready to order. Having previously seen the menu I knew right away what I was having: Eggs Louis, poached eggs on brioche with crabmeat, hollandaise sauce, and bacon. And of course, the chef recommended pairing, Blanche de Bruxelle, from Brasserie Lefebvre; a Belgian white beer with floral notes and distinct citrus flavors.  This witbeir is cloudy, light in color and has a slightly bitter aftertaste.  That turns out to be Leslie’s choice as well. But, if you prefer lunch rather than breakfast, how about the Nobe Kobe, a Kobe beef burger with all the fixings, paired with an Old Rasputin?

Our food arrives along with a fresh beer. I cut into the eggs let the yolk ooze over the crab, and savor my first bite; a hint of lemon, a touch of bitter from the greens, and the smoky crunch of bacon. Perfection. I take a sip of beer and the subtle citrus notes explode to the foreground, reminiscent of fresh orange juice. A beautiful pairing. With my last piece of brioche I soak up the remaining yolk and contemplate having another beer, but with a trip to the airport looming, we settle for the check.

Beer Brunch at Lou’s Beer Garden: a hidden gem and a definite do over.

Pollos y Jarras

Downtown Miami has seen a resurgence in recent years; an influx of residents has enlivened the streets. As a result, more and more new businesses are popping-up. Although spotty, these new restaurants, pubs, and shops have led the way in reshaping Downtown. Chef Juan Chipoco was one of the pioneers with his widely hyped Cvi.Che 105, which started out small and expanded after gaining popularity. Next door, the also Peruvian inspired, Pollos y Jarras marks his second restaurant opening on the same block.

This time, Chipoco has rehabbed a small stand-alone, two-story building that had been an eye-sore and commercial disaster for years. The building now looks great, complemented by outdoor seating and the tucked away Wazzka Lounge (previously a loading area adjacent to the building); making for an active night time retreat in an otherwise dingy street. Inside the restaurant, the décor is casual, yet trendy: concrete, brick, and wood accentuate the lofty feel; while arte chincha posters cleverly drape the walls.  The ground floor features an order counter, wrap-around bar top with stools and full bar in the back. In concept, this is an appealing configuration for a downtown establishment; but in a city like Miami where casual bar top dining hasn’t caught on, the always empty space might give passersby a bad impression. After a short elevator ride with the hostess and a larger than life neon image of Chipoco, you arrive at the main dining space, which on this day, during the soft opening, was buzzing with waiters.

Despite the simplicity implied by its name, the menu is quite extensive; appetizers, sandwiches, soups and salads, grilled meats of all kind, sides, and desserts. The colorful names and adjective laden descriptions turn a tour through the menu into a tour of Peru; quirky, but sometimes cumbersome when deciphering your order. In our case, since the soft opening offered a limited menu, our waiter suggested a sampling for the table; and a sampling we got! It began with a courtesy Aguadito de Pollo, a light and flavorful chicken soup with finely chopped cilantro, chunks of vegetables, and chicken; a pleasant way to begin the meal. 

This was followed by a series of apps: Anticuchos de Res con Choclo (Grilled Beef Heart), Salchiyuca (Sausage and Fried Yuca Sticks), and Yuca Frita con salsa Huancaina (Fried Yuca Sticks). Unfortunately, the Anticuchos de Res were a disappointment; although well seasoned, they were tougher and gamier than customary. The Salchiyuca and Yuca Frita, on the other hand, were tasty and nicely presented in mini fry baskets. The yuca fries, however, were shaped from puree instead of the traditional yuca chunks.

The main course was led by the house specialty, Pollo a la Brasa (Rotisserie Chicken), the meat was juicy and tender, the skin nicely charred, but the seasoning seemed to overpower the pureness of the charcoal grill. This was followed by a savory Skirt Steak that would have been perfect had it been served medium instead of well done; but we were never asked. The entrees were complemented with Arroz Chaufa (Peruvian Fried Rice), which was good, but probably better without chicken bone fragments; a chef’s salad; Camote Frito (Sweet Potato Fries) sprinkled with sugar and absolutely delicious; and crunchy french fries.

While service was good there are definite kinks to work out in the food. The price of the meal was reasonable considering the portions, but having seen the prices on the menu, Pollos y Jarras is not exactly inexpensive, and instead seems to be building on the hype of its predecessor. In spite of this, we’re hoping Chipoco works out the kinks by the time the full menu kicks in.

PIZZA BAR, downtown miami

Everyone has their idea of what a perfect slice of pizza should be.  If you grew up in the northeast like I did, it’s simple; a thin slice of cheese is all you need.  Memories of the gritty pizza shop—strangely they play out in Technicolor—the checkered laminate floor, faded red Formica countertops, bright fluorescent lighting… A place never quite as clean as you’d like it to be, but as a kid dirt is really never an issue.  The sounds of Pac-Man, Frogger, and Street Fighter fill the air.  Behind the counter the dough is being tossed, stretched thin, and formed to the right size by what seems to be an always-annoyed Italian-American covered in flour.  A ladle of a semi-sweet sauce with a hint of spice is meticulously spread around the dough, a hand full of cheese tops it off, and into the oven it goes.  Two dollars later, I have my large slice of cheese and drink; needing only garlic powder and crushed red pepper to finish it off.  Nothing but a greasy, almost transparent paper plate remains, unhealthy I know, but oh so good.  The perfect slice.

The New York style pizza—or in my case the Jersey style pizza—at its core: a simple, unpretentious thin slice of cheese; no magical ingredients, no fancy toppings and yet, so difficult to duplicate outside of the northeast. Flash forward 20 years and travel 1,300 miles south to Pizza Bar in Downtown Miami [228 SE 1ST Street].  Here, you won’t find the gritty pizza shop of your youth.  There are no arcade games playing in the background or faded Formica; instead, you are treated with the familiar sounds of the movie Goodfellas (so cliché and yet, so fitting).  Hanging guitar light fixtures replace the fluorescent bulbs, and stainless steel countertops, exposed brick, and flat screens round-out the modern and purposely gritty décor.  Pizza Bar brings out what you would expect in a typical New York pizza joint: a simple menu, freshly made pies displayed on the storefront and of course, the owner: an Italian from the City.  Like any good pizza joint, a few hot Italian subs and wings round out the menu.  If you’d rather have a salad, they have those too, but really, why would you go to a pizza joint for a salad?  If you’re looking for a good BIG cheese slice, fountain drink, and garlic knot for under $6 then this is your place.  No magical ingredients or fancy toppings, just a good slice.  It’s not quite New York or Jersey, but with the cool vibe and hearty slice, it’s pretty close.

The quest for the perfect slice continues…